A Belle Époque diamond choker, French, circa 1910, the three openwork sliders each...

A Belle Époque diamond choker, French, circa 1910, the three openwork sliders each depicting an ear of wheat with knifewire awns, set throughout with rose-cut diamonds, to a velvet band with old brilliant-cut diamond-set clasp, mounted in platinum and gold, numbered ‘1073’, French assay marks, partial maker’s mark possibly ‘W&F’ or ‘W&E’, choker length 31cm. £500-£700 --- In the ancient world wheat symbolised prosperity and abundance and was associated with Demeter, goddess of agriculture and fertility. In the early 1800s, inspired by earlier Greek and Etruscan jewels, the motif reappeared in the Napoleonic court. Chaumet created the wheat sheaf tiara for Empress Marie-Louise, Napoleon’s second wife, in 1811 and continued to use the motif thereafter. Later in the century ears of wheat also appeared in the revival designs of jewellers such as Castellani and Fontenay. In 1901 Cartier first created a wheat-ear aigrette before designing a series of wheat-ear tiaras and jewels. Literature: Nadelhoffer, H., 'Cartier', Thames and Hudson, 1984. Condition Report General light surface wear commensurate with age and use. Some slight misshaping, indistinct. Spot repair to middle slider (lower leaf).