MARINA B: AN ONYX, EMERALD, RUBY AND DIAMOND 'NAJWA' NECKLACE, CIRCA 1982Designed as a rope of onyx beads, spaced by links set with pear-shaped cabochon emeralds, brilliant-cut diamonds, and onyx and ruby sections, mounted in 18K gold, signed Marina B, with maker's mark 'MB', numbered W347, with maker's mark 'S.A. P.B' for Sté Pierre-G. Brun, French assay marks, with maker's case, length approximately 83cm (slightly extensible)Société Pierre-G Brun is a jewellery workshop which worked for Cartier, Fred, amongst others. They were bought by Cartier in 2000.For a similar model, page 75: 'Marina B. The Art of Jewellery Design', by Viviane Jutheau de Witt, first published in 2003 by Skira Editore S.p.A. In the transformative landscape of the late 20th century, Marina B emerged as a visionary jewellery designer and pioneer, whose creations bridged the worlds of engineering precision and refined artistry. Born into the illustrious Bulgari family, she was part of the third generation of this renowned jewellery house. Following the death of her father in 1973, Marina assumed a central role in the family business until 1976 and in 1978, she established Marina B, opening her first showroom on Geneva’s Place du Molard and quickly expanding to the fashionable hubs of London, Milan, Monte Carlo, Paris, and New York. Marina B’s designs are characterised by splendid, heavy gold pieces set with intensely coloured gemstones. Instead of the conventional method of stringing pearls and beads, which she found mundane, she pioneered innovative assembly techniques that revealed the hidden beauty of each gemstone. By creating deliberate “belly buttons” in round, colourful stones and embracing interchangeable design elements, she crafted jewellery that was both dynamic and adaptable. A defining chapter in her colourful career was her collaboration with the highly skilled Parisian workshop of JeanPierre Brun. Introduced to her by her trusted draughtsman, JeanPierre Varin, Brun’s workshop became her principal partner. Brun’s jewellery workshop was established in Paris in 1936, and quickly became a cornerstone of ‘haute joaillerie’, renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship and collaborations with prestigious design houses. Initially led by Pierre G. Brun until his retirement in 1975. Under his sons’ Jean-Pierre and Etienne stewardship, the workshop solidified its reputation, working with esteemed brands such as Asprey, Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chaumet, and Van Cleef & Arpels. JeanPierre Brun himself described Marina B’s creations as highly structured, architectural, and meticulously constructed, comparing her uncompromising attention to detail to that of Suzanne Belperron. This collaboration not only underscored her commitment to precision but also played a crucial role in realising her inventive designs, including complex mechanisms for chokers and necklaces. Perhaps one of her most celebrated masterpieces is the Najwa sautoir necklace, introduced in 1982. Designed originally for a princess. Comprising a seamless strand of 1,800 nearly invisible pearls interwoven with subtle yet striking motifs in gold and diamond pavé, this necklace defied conventional aesthetics. The Najwa sautoir quickly evolving into a symbol of Marina B’s creative genius and remains an enduring icon of her prestige. Marina B’s work has always been more than mere ornamentation. It tells a story of a woman who dared to break with tradition, blending her heritage with her own inventive vision. Her jewellery, whether it be a transformative piece with reversible earrings, interchangeable gemstones, or a meticulously engineered choker, continues to capture the imagination of those who appreciate the fusion of technical mastery and artistic flair. Marina B changed ownership multiple times after Marina Bulgari stepped away from the brand in 1996. Drawing inspiration from its remarkable archive of over 12,000 sketches, in 2017 the brand has entered an exciting new chapter under the leadership of renowned jewellery designer Guy Bedarida. Known for his influential roles at Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, John Hardy, took the helm at Marina B by acquiring a majority stake in the band and becoming its creative director. In February last year, Marina Bulgari passed away in her Roman house on Valentine’s Day, at the age of 93. Her lasting impact on the jewellery world is evident in every beautiful piece she created, reflecting her timeless style and spirit. Condition Report: A couple of beads discoloured to the front near the clasp (discreet) and a dozen on the reverseEmeralds: of bluish-green hue, medium tone, overall well matchedRubies: of purplish-red hue, medium tone, overall well matchedDiamonds: bright and livelySignature on clasp + maker's mark 'MB' for Marina B located on the tongue of claspEagle's head for French 18K gold + stamped OR750Maker's mark for Marina B - numbered W347With maker's mark for Société Pierre-G BrunClasp closes securelyNormal signs of wear, commensurate with ageTotal gross weight approx. 130g
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