AN IMPORTANT LATE 19TH CENTURY PAIR OF AMETHYST AND DIAMOND PENDENT EARRINGSOf girandole design, each set with three pear-shaped amethyst drops, to the old-cut diamond foliate motif and circular-cut amethyst and old-cut diamond cluster surmount, mounted in silver and gold, with partial Russian assay mark ?'56', amethysts approximately 35.00cts total, diamonds approximately 3.30cts total, length 4.9cmA historical pair from the 18th century, of similar design, was sold at Christie's in Geneva, 13.11.2007, lot 269.Amethysts have been treasured for centuries, revered by ancient cultures from Greece to medieval Europe. The name comes from the Greek amethysts, meaning “not intoxicated,” reflecting the belief that the stone could ward off drunkenness and promote mental clarity. Symbolising wisdom, royalty, and spiritual protection, amethysts were worn by bishops and monarchs, were valued for their beauty and their perceived ability to calm the mind and strengthen resolve. Among the most coveted are Siberian amethysts, famed for their rich, velvety purple hue often accented with flashes of red and blue. Mined from Russia’s Ural Mountains since the 18th century, these stones quickly became the gold standard of amethyst quality. Though production from the region has declined, Siberian amethysts remain highly prized for their depth of colour and exceptional clarity, often commanding premium prices on the market. Today, amethysts are sourced from regions including Brazil, Zambia, Uruguay, and Madagascar, each offering distinct characteristics. Brazilian stones are typically lighter with a clear, violet hue, while Zambian amethysts are darker, often with a bluish tint. Uruguayan gems stand out for their vivid saturation and purity. Yet among them all, Siberian amethysts remain the most prized, distinguished by their intensity and historical provenance. Siberian amethysts were favoured by the Russian nobility, with figures like Empress Catherine the Great adorning themselves in amethyst-laden jewels. In modern times, the stone continues to make public appearances. Queen Elizabeth II famously wore amethyst pieces from the Kent Amethyst Suite, while Lupita Nyong’o stunned at the 2015 Golden Globe Awards in Chopard amethyst earrings.Siberian amethysts have achieved remarkable results at auction, reflecting their rarity and historic value. A Victorian amethyst and diamond necklace from the 19th century sold at Christie’s London for over £75,000, far exceeding its estimate. Similarly, pieces from Queen Alexandra’s collection have also surfaced in royal exhibitions and private sales, often valued in the six-figure range, underscoring the enduring prestige of these exceptional gems. The Romanov dynasty ruled Russia from 1613 until 1917, when the Revolution abruptly ended their empire. The last years of the 19th and the early 20th century was a period of elegance and excess for the Tsars and the wealthy families of Russia. The Imperial family’s jewellery was amongst the most precious in the world. These jewels were tangible symbols of the power of the Romanovs and their deep ties to European aristocracy and culture and were once the epitome of Russian opulence. After the Bolshevik Revolution, the fate of these precious treasures would become one of the most captivating chapters in the story of the Russian Empire’s fall. The Bolsheviks, in their sweeping promises of equality, claimed that the jewels once hoarded by the aristocracy would be used for the benefit of the people. “Diamonds, pearls, and precious stones that have cost workers endless suffering for centuries are now in safe hands. The proletariat will be able to use them wisely,” they boasted in the 1920s. Yet, while the Soviet government officially denied any sale of the Romanov collection, they could not entirely escape the growing rumours that began circulating in the West. In response to these whispers, the Bolsheviks organised a lavish exhibition of the Russian Crown Jewels in Moscow on December 18, 1925, to counter the belief that the revolution had torn apart the cultural and material legacy of Russia’s royal family. But less than a year later, the treasures were quietly sold, and the secrets of their dispersal would only emerge later. In a remarkable twist of history, American antiquarian Norman Weiss acquired a substantial portion of the Crown Jewels exhibition in 1926, purchasing 9 kilograms of imperial treasures for $50,000. Among the pieces were two pairs of magnificent 18th-century girandole earrings, a quintessential example of Russian royal jewellery, that soon entered the international market. One of these pairs, set with vibrant Ural amethysts, is famously associated with Empress Catherine the Great. The earrings are prominently featured in a portrait of the young Catherine, then still a Tsarevna and Grand Duchess, long before she assumed the throne. Though not yet immersed in imperial luxury, the gift, commissioned by Empress Elizabeth Petrovna from her court jeweller, Jérémie Pauzié, already reflected the grandeur of the 18th-century Russian court. Crafted by Pauzié, renowned for his meticulous attention to detail and his intricate, heavy designs, the earrings became a significant part of Catherine’s early life. When time came for Cathrine’s coronation, the soon-to-be crowned empress entrusted Pauzié with the creation of the Imperial Crown of Russia. The jeweller collaborated closely with the court’s most skilled artisans, and together, they fashioned the exquisite crown, adorned with nearly 5,000 diamonds and 75 large pearls, a feat that has since become an iconic piece of Russian history. After the earrings were sold to Weiss, they resurfaced in 1929 when JS Phillips purchased them at Christie’s London for 135 pounds. Decades later, in 2007, they appeared again at Christie’s in Geneva, fetching 433,000 Swiss francs and reaffirming the enduring allure of Russian imperial jewellery. The sale of the Romanov jewels remains a poignant and fascinating story, illustrating the complex intersection of revolution, power, and history. These jewels, symbols of a vanished world, continue to captivate collectors, historians, and admirers offering a glimpse into the opulence of the Russian Empire before its collapse. Condition Report: Amethysts:3 PS each approx. 6.43cts, 4.57cts & 4.18cts & 1 RD 2.12cts3 PS each approx. 6.57cts, 4.35cts & 4.40cts & 1 RD 2.11ctsPS: Of purple hue, medium to dark tone, good transparency, facets are smooth, well matched in colourRD: Of purple hue, medium tone, good transparency, one slightly darker than the other oneDiamonds: approx. 3.30cts total, bright and livelyWith partial Russian assay mark ? '56' on each back earrings, one posts slightly looser when opening itFor pierced earsNormal signs of wear, commensurate with age, overall in good conditionTotal gross weight approx. 22.6g
